To the ADAM NEWS NETWORK 
From the 5/90 463 ADAM Newsletter
 
 
HARDWARE MODIFICATIONS 
by Dean Roades 
 
I'm not much when it comes to working inside the computer, as I don't know much about electronics, but I DO like to tinker around.  I am able to solder a little and can usually get things back together when I take them apart.  I made some modifications to my ADAM recently and would like to pass along what I learned.  
If you try these modifications, PLEASE be careful.  There is always the chance of messing up your system. 
 
POWER SUPPLY COVER 
On my last birthday, I received a power supply cover and light. (How did they know??  Could it have been the order form I filled out and left on the coffee table??) I wondered how the power supply could run cooler if it was enclosed, but I was also concered about the dust that was collecting on it from leaving it open.  It turns out that the cover is made of thin aluminum and, attached to the heat sink on the back of the PS, helps draw the heat away.  
The cover is very easy.  Following the directions, I put several layers of electrical tape over the capacitors and transformer (to prevent short circuts).  Then remove two screws from each side of the PS, line up the holes in the cover, and replace the screws.  That's all there is to it.  
 
The light is a little more work.  I don't know if it is always necessary to add this.  I turn my system on with a power outlet strip.  My power supply is tucked under my desk, in the back, so I can't see the light anyway.  To install the light, turn the PS over and remove the small cover.  Mount the light just under the on-off switch and run the leads thru the grommet that is there.  Solder the leads, making sure that no loose wires will touch the cover and short out.  Replace the cover and you are done. 
 
Both jobs can be done in under a half hour (less if you know what you are doing).  It really make the PS look nice, and I have been having less trouble with my second ADAM since I added the cover.  I highly recommend this for all those with bare power supplies.
 
 
FULL STROKE KEYPAD
I have mentioned several times the keypads I bought from a surplus electronics house.  The keypad is the same as the one used in the WICO game controllers.  I have been wanting to get one hooked up to use with PowerPAINT, because the mylar 'keys' on the Coleco game controller are very slow to work with.  (For those who may not know, in PowerPAINT you can use the game controller keypad instead of the Smart keys and function keys.) I originally intended to build a wooden case for the keypad, but then I thought if I could fit it into a standard controller case, it would fit into the holder on the side of the keyboard.  I am happy to report success!!  The only drawback is that the joystick is not hooked up.  This is fine for my purposes, since I use the cursor keys most of the time.  This new arrangement will make a perfect companion to the mouse I hope to get in the future. 
 
The modification is mostly trial and error, but I will try to explain what I did.  I opened up a controller and removed the components.  I cut out the cross-hatch where the old keypad was.  I had to cut away a little more on one side to make the keypad fit.  To close the case, I cut out two of the posts that the screws go into to hold the case closed.  (No problem, there are two left which are enough to do the job.
I drilled two holes just below the joystick and mounted push button switches (SPST Normally open) to use inplace of the fire buttons.  (In PowerPAINT, these correspond to the Escape and Return keys.) After all this was in place, I soldered the wires from the original controller cord to the proper locations.  The keypad came with a black, coiled cord, but the original looked better.  I ran into a minor problem here.  The wires were not the same color in both cords.
     WICO COLECO
     White Brown
     Purple Red
     Orange Orange
     Blue Yellow
     Green Green
     Red Blue
     Yellow Grey 
Be careful to note where the wire were originally so you can solder the new ones in the right place. 
When all the connections were made, I pulled the fire buttons off the original controller components and glued them into the place they belonged.  They don'y DO anything, it just looks nicer than leaving a couple of holes in the sides.  I tried to glue the joytick post in place, but it quickly came loose.  I opened the case and put a piece of foam under it to keep it from rattling.  Again, no function, it just looks better. 
 
DISK DRIVES 
The standard 160k disk drives are in very short supply, as you know if you are looking for one.  I have 2 160k drives and between our newsletter and my work with the ADAM news Network, they get quite a workout.  My biggest fear is a breakdown.  In an effort to minimize the risk, I purchased the drive mechanics for a 160k from ADAM's House.  What I received was a single unit that contained the drive motor, heads, front door, and other electronics.  At first it looked like a complete drive, but of course it wasn't. 
In order to test it to be sure it worked, I installed it into my No.2 drive.  It was easier to do than I expected.  I opened the case, unplugged and removed the drive mechanics.  Take care to notice where all the plugs are attached.  I installed the new unit, replaced the case, and I was back in business. 
All the moving parts are in this package (the parts most likely to fail), so I am confident that if there is ever a problem, I will be back up and running very quickly.  The cast is slightly less than sending the drive out for repair, but the main advantage is TIME. 

I know that these modifications seem very minor to some of our ADAM experts.  I hope I have not bored you to much.  At the same time, I hope I have suitably impressed some novices and perhaps given them the confidence to try some of their own changes.  After all, the name of the game is to make your ADAM better or easier to use.  I have done both for my system.
 
 
Dean Roades - Editor - 463 ADAM 
8522 Hohman Ave. 
Munster, IN 46321 
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